Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Samantha's 8th Birthday
Samantha's 8th Birthday was on January 23rd. We had a small family celebration at home with Italian pastries, then walked to our local gelato cafe for some coffee and ice cream. Once again, I find myself grateful for clerks who speak just enough English for me to get by and who don't mind my Italian with an Americano accent. A couple at another table had just come from mass. He switched easily back and forth from speaking Italian with his girlfriend and English to his friends on his cell phone. SO looking forward to being that comfortable with the language.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Florence and the Uffizi Gallery
MWR, Morale, Welfare and Recreation, are the folks who provide a huge variety of support services for DoD personnel - military and civilian - while serving the country overseas. This mission includes fun things like trips every weekend to somewhere. Since we are so close to some the best skiing on the planet, most of the trips from here involve skiing or snowboarding. However, there is plenty to choose from for those of us who don't ski (yet). After two false starts - we had to withdraw from a trip to Milan when I threw out my back and the Munich trip was canceled by MWR - we were able to take part in the trip to Florence and the Uffizi Gallery. Maybe we should avoid cities that begin with "M"?
Florence (Firenze) has entirely too much to offer for a quick day trip, but it was a good way to assess the city and get the lay of the land so we'd know what we were getting into with a return trip.
A quick heads-up - Art in Florence features naked people. Samantha is still giggling over and she's declared "Perseus with Medusa" gross because of that part right there. If you are going to look at our photos with your kids, you might want to have a little talk with them first.
We started our day at the Uffizi Gallery. The Uffizi was built at the request of Medici duke Cosimo I (1519-1574) as administrative offices. His son, Francesco I (1541-1587) had the top floor transformed into a gallery to house the huge art collection of the Medici family. The rest, as they say, is history. Unfortunately for tourists but best for the art, you aren't allowed to take photos of the items in the gallery. The Virtual Uffizi is a terrific web site where you can explore the gallery from where you are. The pictures below are jpegs from this web site. We didn't dare try to take our own. We saw a museum host yelling at someone who was taking photos (without a flash) and it wasn't a pretty scene.
Lesson learned: Do NOT challenge the authority of the keepers of antiquities.
Of all the art at the Uffizi, the painting with the greatest pop culture presence is probably "The Birth of Venus" by Botticelli. As many times as I've seen this painting in books, magazines and on television, I never really noticed the figure on the right rushing to cover Venus with a blanket until the tour guide pointed it out.
"The Holy Family"by Michelangelo is an attention grabber. If you can find a better image of this painting, check out the details in the frame (also designed by Michelangelo). The painting captures real family life to me - Mary is handing Jesus over her shoulder to Joseph. Jesus has his hand on mom's head for balance. I also like that this illustrates a concept of Mary as a powerful woman. Notice Mary's biceps (Cross Fit?). Also, she isn't a blonde. Ever notice that Mary is ALWAYS painted as a blonde? FYI - The baby to the right of Mary and behind the low wall is John the Baptist. If you weren't aware, they were about the same age so the depiction of them both as children is chronologically accurate.
There are literally thousands of pieces of art within the walls of the Uffizi. We only hit the highlights while we were there, but you could easily spend a week wandering through the place and still not see it all.
We made our way to Piazza delle Signoria to see the Fountain of Neptune at the Palazzo Vecchio. The entrance is flanked by a copy of Michelangelo's "David" and Bandinelli's "Hercules and Cacus". The original David used to be here, but it was moved indoor in the 1800s for protection and replaced by this copy.
In the same plaza is Cellini's "Perseus with Medusa". If you are unfamiliar with Cellini, his autobiography is a journey through one of the biggest egos you'll likely ever encounter (my personal opinion). It's called "The Autobiography of Benvenuto Cellini" because what else would such a book be titled. If you read e-books, it's available free on Project Gutenberg. Ron took the pictures of this sculpture while I my attention was captured by all the faces on the Fountain of Neptune.
Next, it's a short walk to the Ponte Vecchio. I had read that its the only bridge to have survived the German's withdrawal from Florence during WWII and I had also read that it's one of only two original bridges that still stand after the German's withdrew from the city. I wasn't sure which was correct, but I got my answer from a children's book about Florence called "Florence, Just Add Water". The Ponte Vecchio was left intact, but the roads on either side were destroyed. The Santa Trinita bridge was destroyed but rebuilt from the original stones and statues that were fished out of the river after the war. Amazingly, all the pieces were found eventually.
There is a bust of Cellini surrounded by an iron fence in the middle of the bridge. Couples write their names on padlocks, lock them onto the fence, and toss the key into the Arno River. I read on the Tuscan Traveler blog that the authorities cut them all off the fence every few months. This tradition has more to do with the bridge than it does with Cellini. Cellini may have been an amazing artist, but he was a notorious switch hitter in his day. In a rage, he murdered his wife and his apprentice when he found them "together". He had a serious crush on his apprentice at the time so I won't guess as to who he credited with the greater betrayal.
After the Ponte Vecchio, we walked a little way to Piazza Duomo to investigate the The church of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Campanile (bell tower), the Baptistry and, of course, The Duomo.
The inside of the dome. They were getting ready for services so this was the only angel we could capture.
As usual, there are more photos to share in the slide show. Click on the slide show to go to the photo album to read more about the photos.
Ciao!
P.S. Next trip is San Marino. I'll try to get Ron to narrate that one.
Florence (Firenze) has entirely too much to offer for a quick day trip, but it was a good way to assess the city and get the lay of the land so we'd know what we were getting into with a return trip.
A quick heads-up - Art in Florence features naked people. Samantha is still giggling over and she's declared "Perseus with Medusa" gross because of that part right there. If you are going to look at our photos with your kids, you might want to have a little talk with them first.
We started our day at the Uffizi Gallery. The Uffizi was built at the request of Medici duke Cosimo I (1519-1574) as administrative offices. His son, Francesco I (1541-1587) had the top floor transformed into a gallery to house the huge art collection of the Medici family. The rest, as they say, is history. Unfortunately for tourists but best for the art, you aren't allowed to take photos of the items in the gallery. The Virtual Uffizi is a terrific web site where you can explore the gallery from where you are. The pictures below are jpegs from this web site. We didn't dare try to take our own. We saw a museum host yelling at someone who was taking photos (without a flash) and it wasn't a pretty scene.
Lesson learned: Do NOT challenge the authority of the keepers of antiquities.
Of all the art at the Uffizi, the painting with the greatest pop culture presence is probably "The Birth of Venus" by Botticelli. As many times as I've seen this painting in books, magazines and on television, I never really noticed the figure on the right rushing to cover Venus with a blanket until the tour guide pointed it out.
"The Holy Family"by Michelangelo is an attention grabber. If you can find a better image of this painting, check out the details in the frame (also designed by Michelangelo). The painting captures real family life to me - Mary is handing Jesus over her shoulder to Joseph. Jesus has his hand on mom's head for balance. I also like that this illustrates a concept of Mary as a powerful woman. Notice Mary's biceps (Cross Fit?). Also, she isn't a blonde. Ever notice that Mary is ALWAYS painted as a blonde? FYI - The baby to the right of Mary and behind the low wall is John the Baptist. If you weren't aware, they were about the same age so the depiction of them both as children is chronologically accurate.
There are literally thousands of pieces of art within the walls of the Uffizi. We only hit the highlights while we were there, but you could easily spend a week wandering through the place and still not see it all.
We made our way to Piazza delle Signoria to see the Fountain of Neptune at the Palazzo Vecchio. The entrance is flanked by a copy of Michelangelo's "David" and Bandinelli's "Hercules and Cacus". The original David used to be here, but it was moved indoor in the 1800s for protection and replaced by this copy.
In the same plaza is Cellini's "Perseus with Medusa". If you are unfamiliar with Cellini, his autobiography is a journey through one of the biggest egos you'll likely ever encounter (my personal opinion). It's called "The Autobiography of Benvenuto Cellini" because what else would such a book be titled. If you read e-books, it's available free on Project Gutenberg. Ron took the pictures of this sculpture while I my attention was captured by all the faces on the Fountain of Neptune.
Next, it's a short walk to the Ponte Vecchio. I had read that its the only bridge to have survived the German's withdrawal from Florence during WWII and I had also read that it's one of only two original bridges that still stand after the German's withdrew from the city. I wasn't sure which was correct, but I got my answer from a children's book about Florence called "Florence, Just Add Water". The Ponte Vecchio was left intact, but the roads on either side were destroyed. The Santa Trinita bridge was destroyed but rebuilt from the original stones and statues that were fished out of the river after the war. Amazingly, all the pieces were found eventually.
There is a bust of Cellini surrounded by an iron fence in the middle of the bridge. Couples write their names on padlocks, lock them onto the fence, and toss the key into the Arno River. I read on the Tuscan Traveler blog that the authorities cut them all off the fence every few months. This tradition has more to do with the bridge than it does with Cellini. Cellini may have been an amazing artist, but he was a notorious switch hitter in his day. In a rage, he murdered his wife and his apprentice when he found them "together". He had a serious crush on his apprentice at the time so I won't guess as to who he credited with the greater betrayal.
After the Ponte Vecchio, we walked a little way to Piazza Duomo to investigate the The church of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Campanile (bell tower), the Baptistry and, of course, The Duomo.
The inside of the dome. They were getting ready for services so this was the only angel we could capture.
As usual, there are more photos to share in the slide show. Click on the slide show to go to the photo album to read more about the photos.
Ciao!
P.S. Next trip is San Marino. I'll try to get Ron to narrate that one.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Small Victories
Today has been the first day it hasn't rained in almost a week. Danica and I have been going stir crazy. It was sunny and about 45 degrees so we got brave and ventured out into the neighborhood.
First, we went to the post office. I had letters for friends in France and Poland. It seemed to me that postage from one European country to another would be cheaper than mailing the letters from the US Post Office on the installation. I'm not sure if I was right or not since it cost 4.50 Euro to mail three cards. The Post Office works like the DMV. You take a number for the service you need - stamps, passport, etc. - and wait until they post your number and window location on the electronic board. They also call out the numbers, but I can't count higher than 10 yet and my number was 54. Of course, since I can't read the Italian on the sign where you check in and get your number, I got in the wrong queue. One of the benefits of looking like an Americano in Italy is that you can get away with stupid stuff like getting into the wrong queue when you go to the post office.
Since we were out and about already, we took the long way home to explore the neighborhood. Danica and I decided to presume this sign said "Public Park". When we got home and ran it through Google translate - phew! - we were not trespassing. This park is public green space.
Next we went to check out the main bridge in town which, according to this sign, is 422 years old and designed by everyone's favorite 500 year old architect, Andrea Palladio. You can learn more about the Tesina River Bridge on Wikipedia, but the translation to English comes across poorly.
While we were walking around, I took some photos of some of my favorite houses in the neighborhood.
This estate is next to the Tesina River Bridge. I needed one of those old panorama cameras to capture the whole thing. The garage/storage area on the right goes on for another 100 feet or so.
This house is on our street, via Vicenza. I like the use of color. The golden yellow and dark orange are common combination in this area, but this is the first home I've seen where it's been paired with hunter green. I haven't figured out the primary purpose for the rollie doors over the windows. Many of the homes in the area have them, including ours. They remind me of hurricane protection on some of the homes on the Outer Banks of NC. My best guess is that they are part security and part heat retention.
This is the street sign on our corner. In the background is another example of the rollie doors over the windows.
This home is also on our street, via Vicenza. I love this place. The landscaping, the architecture - this is what Italy looks like in my imagination. The only thing missing are beautiful people in white linen and expensive shoes standing around with glasses of red wine looking bored because they are too cool to be there.
This house is by the park/green space. The balcony is facing towards the Italian Alps. On a clear day, the view must be breathtaking.
Pam Mason, this picture is for you. You can't see much of the house, but the rosemary bush as a landscape feature is terrific. I like the tiny metal flames in the fence.
More photos of our walk around Torri are available in the slide show. Click on the slide show to go to the photo album and see all the pictures and all my snarky comments. :-)
First, we went to the post office. I had letters for friends in France and Poland. It seemed to me that postage from one European country to another would be cheaper than mailing the letters from the US Post Office on the installation. I'm not sure if I was right or not since it cost 4.50 Euro to mail three cards. The Post Office works like the DMV. You take a number for the service you need - stamps, passport, etc. - and wait until they post your number and window location on the electronic board. They also call out the numbers, but I can't count higher than 10 yet and my number was 54. Of course, since I can't read the Italian on the sign where you check in and get your number, I got in the wrong queue. One of the benefits of looking like an Americano in Italy is that you can get away with stupid stuff like getting into the wrong queue when you go to the post office.
Since we were out and about already, we took the long way home to explore the neighborhood. Danica and I decided to presume this sign said "Public Park". When we got home and ran it through Google translate - phew! - we were not trespassing. This park is public green space.
Next we went to check out the main bridge in town which, according to this sign, is 422 years old and designed by everyone's favorite 500 year old architect, Andrea Palladio. You can learn more about the Tesina River Bridge on Wikipedia, but the translation to English comes across poorly.
While we were walking around, I took some photos of some of my favorite houses in the neighborhood.
This estate is next to the Tesina River Bridge. I needed one of those old panorama cameras to capture the whole thing. The garage/storage area on the right goes on for another 100 feet or so.
This house is on our street, via Vicenza. I like the use of color. The golden yellow and dark orange are common combination in this area, but this is the first home I've seen where it's been paired with hunter green. I haven't figured out the primary purpose for the rollie doors over the windows. Many of the homes in the area have them, including ours. They remind me of hurricane protection on some of the homes on the Outer Banks of NC. My best guess is that they are part security and part heat retention.
This is the street sign on our corner. In the background is another example of the rollie doors over the windows.
This home is also on our street, via Vicenza. I love this place. The landscaping, the architecture - this is what Italy looks like in my imagination. The only thing missing are beautiful people in white linen and expensive shoes standing around with glasses of red wine looking bored because they are too cool to be there.
This house is by the park/green space. The balcony is facing towards the Italian Alps. On a clear day, the view must be breathtaking.
Pam Mason, this picture is for you. You can't see much of the house, but the rosemary bush as a landscape feature is terrific. I like the tiny metal flames in the fence.
More photos of our walk around Torri are available in the slide show. Click on the slide show to go to the photo album and see all the pictures and all my snarky comments. :-)
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