Monte Berico - “If you don't scale the mountain, you can't view the plain”

We recently spent an afternoon on Monte Berico in Vicenza. Monte Berico features an incredible view of Vicenza and beyond (see above) from the Piazzale della Vittoria. On a clear day, which this wasn't, you can see all the way to the lagoons of Venice and the Adriatic coast. On this day, we could see the Palladian Basilica (large green roof) and the Torre Bissara in downtown Vicenza. Monte Berico is also the home of the Basilica di S. Maria di Monte Berico (to the left). History tells us that the people of Vicenza were suffering from plague in 1426 when the Virgin Mary appeared twice on Monte Berico to promise deliverance from the sickness. The faithful and thankful people of Vicenza constructed a church on the site where she appeared. The original church (photo on the left)still stands and the structure is incorporated into the newer portion. Newer being a relative term - the original was built in 1428 and the expansion was added in 1688. We didn't go inside, but I hope we can next time. Housed in the refectory is a painting called "The Supper of Saint Gregory the Great" by Veronese. While the painting itself is a treasure, it also represents a spectacular success story for art restoration experts. In 1848, Austrian soldiers used this and other paintings for bayonet practice. The Supper was cut up into 30+ pieces. Other paintings weren't so lucky, but this one was able to be saved. What's so special about 1848? Revolution! Here is some more information on what was going on in Italy in 1848 from Encyclopedia Britannica.

St. Sebastian's first martyrdom is depicted in one of the statues on the outside of the church. "St. Sebastian with arrows" is a commonly utilized image but it is a misconception that this was how he died. Rather, it's just another case of the facts bending under the weight of sensationalism. This example just happens to be a thousand years old. For those unfamiliar with with the story, Sebastian was a Captain in the Roman army in the late third century and a Christian. Through his support and encouragement of two prisoners, they were able to maintain their commitment to the faith although they were facing execution. His support, plus a miracle or two here and there, convinced several prominent Roman officials and their families to also convert. For this betrayal, he was ordered executed - tied to a post, shot with arrows and left for dead - by the Emperor. He survived this execution attempt and was nursed back to health by Irene of Rome (later St. Irene of Rome). Apparently, Sebastian couldn't take a hint. When he regained his health, he approached the Emperor in public and loudly condemned his treatment of Christians. Maximian did not take kindly to a public rebuke and ordered Sebastian to be beaten to death with clubs (a second martyrdom). And they say we're violent today.

The Portico del Monte Berico (The Arcades of Monte Berico) is a steep, covered walkway consisting of 168 (+/-) arches and terminating at the Basilica di S. Maria di Monte Berico. The Stations of the Cross can be found sheltered within. Fairly new to this landscape, it was designed and built in the late 1700's. Each arch was sponsored and bears the name of the individual patron or organization that contributed to the success of project (aka ponied up some serious 18th century cash). It's not considered to be an architecturally beautiful structure by experts. We're not experts so we're not ashamed to admit it's impressive. I'm glad I don't have to walk this route every day. These photos only catch about half of the arches. At the break in the hill, the walkway makes a left and continues on down the hill.







Arrivederci, until next post.



Points West (get it?)

West in English = Ovest in Italian.

"This was Venice, the flattering and suspect beauty this city, half fairy tale and half tourist trap......" ~ Thomas Mann (1875-1955)

On February 27, Team Pinkoski went to Venice to take part in Carnevale festivities. "The Flight of the Angel" is an annual event dating back forever. I've read different dates, but it's been at least 400 years. The Angel ziplines from the San Marco bell tower to the center of Piazza San Marco. The Angel meets the Doge (as near as I can tell, the Doge serves in a role like the Rex at Mardi Gras) and Carnevale begins! In the 1700's, an Angel fell to his death and for the centuries to follow, the part of "The Angel" was fulfilled by a mannequin or other suitable substitute. Real people serving in the role as "The Angel" has only recently been reintroduced. While Carnevale is a great time, it is not a great time to see historic museums and sites. We will go back another time to see those. The thing to do while in Venice during Carnevale is to enjoy Carnevale. The costumes are amazing and the actors who wear them play their parts well. They stroll around the City posing for photographs and don't speak when performing, relying on exaggerated hand gestures. (You can insert a little snicker about Italians being VERY good at communicating with hand gestures here. I'm part Sicilian on my mom's side. I can take it.). It was irresistible to capture the humor in these two actors in white and gold talking on their cell phones while strolling through the crowd. A little glimpse through a fracture in the character's veneer to the modern people within. Or maybe they were just on a break.









Italians adore small children. Danica attracts quite a bit of attention any time we are in public, but she was especially popular at Carnevale. Several times throughout the day, strangers asked if they could take her photograph. We met a very nice British couple who snapped a few photos of Danica while she was having her face painted. Two Italian grandmas made a big fuss. Ronnie's dragon mask and Samantha's face paint butterfly were also attention-getters, as well.









The crowd was not this dense all day long, but it was close.









Venice has quintessential features that can be appreciated in spite of Carnevale crowds.
When you think of Venice, you think of -

Gondolas...

(gondolas are for tourists)







Canals...







Narrow Streets...







Water taxi....
Water taxis are for unsuspecting tourists who will find themselves significantly lighter in the pocket afterwards. If you visit on your own some day, take the water bus.





and of course, the amazing art of the Basilica San Marco.


















Next post, a quick trip to the top of Monte Berico here in Vicenza.

As usual, the slide show is here......



Ciao!

P.S. The local artists do not usually allow photos of the masks. I think it's so their designs are not copied. I don't know how Ron got away with taking the photo of the masks without a loud scolding by the merchant.