Monte Berico - “If you don't scale the mountain, you can't view the plain”

We recently spent an afternoon on Monte Berico in Vicenza. Monte Berico features an incredible view of Vicenza and beyond (see above) from the Piazzale della Vittoria. On a clear day, which this wasn't, you can see all the way to the lagoons of Venice and the Adriatic coast. On this day, we could see the Palladian Basilica (large green roof) and the Torre Bissara in downtown Vicenza. Monte Berico is also the home of the Basilica di S. Maria di Monte Berico (to the left). History tells us that the people of Vicenza were suffering from plague in 1426 when the Virgin Mary appeared twice on Monte Berico to promise deliverance from the sickness. The faithful and thankful people of Vicenza constructed a church on the site where she appeared. The original church (photo on the left)still stands and the structure is incorporated into the newer portion. Newer being a relative term - the original was built in 1428 and the expansion was added in 1688. We didn't go inside, but I hope we can next time. Housed in the refectory is a painting called "The Supper of Saint Gregory the Great" by Veronese. While the painting itself is a treasure, it also represents a spectacular success story for art restoration experts. In 1848, Austrian soldiers used this and other paintings for bayonet practice. The Supper was cut up into 30+ pieces. Other paintings weren't so lucky, but this one was able to be saved. What's so special about 1848? Revolution! Here is some more information on what was going on in Italy in 1848 from Encyclopedia Britannica.

St. Sebastian's first martyrdom is depicted in one of the statues on the outside of the church. "St. Sebastian with arrows" is a commonly utilized image but it is a misconception that this was how he died. Rather, it's just another case of the facts bending under the weight of sensationalism. This example just happens to be a thousand years old. For those unfamiliar with with the story, Sebastian was a Captain in the Roman army in the late third century and a Christian. Through his support and encouragement of two prisoners, they were able to maintain their commitment to the faith although they were facing execution. His support, plus a miracle or two here and there, convinced several prominent Roman officials and their families to also convert. For this betrayal, he was ordered executed - tied to a post, shot with arrows and left for dead - by the Emperor. He survived this execution attempt and was nursed back to health by Irene of Rome (later St. Irene of Rome). Apparently, Sebastian couldn't take a hint. When he regained his health, he approached the Emperor in public and loudly condemned his treatment of Christians. Maximian did not take kindly to a public rebuke and ordered Sebastian to be beaten to death with clubs (a second martyrdom). And they say we're violent today.

The Portico del Monte Berico (The Arcades of Monte Berico) is a steep, covered walkway consisting of 168 (+/-) arches and terminating at the Basilica di S. Maria di Monte Berico. The Stations of the Cross can be found sheltered within. Fairly new to this landscape, it was designed and built in the late 1700's. Each arch was sponsored and bears the name of the individual patron or organization that contributed to the success of project (aka ponied up some serious 18th century cash). It's not considered to be an architecturally beautiful structure by experts. We're not experts so we're not ashamed to admit it's impressive. I'm glad I don't have to walk this route every day. These photos only catch about half of the arches. At the break in the hill, the walkway makes a left and continues on down the hill.







Arrivederci, until next post.



Points West (get it?)

West in English = Ovest in Italian.