La terra del vino.

One of the most emblematic symbols of Italy and Italian culture is the wine. The Italians lead the world in wine production and consumption. There are over one million acres of vineyard in the country. There are hundreds of varieties of grapes and every Region of the country has a wine or two that it boasts are the best in the world. So it was a genuine thrill when, on a Sunday in late September, the Pinkoski’s Great Big European Adventure got the opportunity to harvest grapes and attempt to produce some fabled Moscato (or Moscoski as it was graciously named by our host, Alberto).

Alberto is a good friend and colleague whose family has a vineyard near Vicenza. They grow mostly garganega grapes, but the vineyard includes about 10 Moscato grape vines. Alberto asked his father if we could experiment and make a true Moscato and he kindly agreed.

With one professional and a handful of amateurs, we picked the 10 vines clean of grapes. It’s not as easy as it seems; you’re working mostly over your head (literally and figuratively in our case); you don’t want to crush the grapes (not yet anyway) or drop them, or leave any hanging. But you don’t want harvest too many bugs or spiders. And the bees, gnats and flies come out of the woodwork when they get a whiff of grape juice. So we snipped bunches of grapes until all our baskets and buckets were full - about 150 kilograms, loaded them on the tractor and headed for the barn (Sammie even took a turn at the wheel of the tractor). We did our share of eating too, at least the big kids did. Moscato grapes distinctive taste makes them especially sweet, but the kids weren’t used to eating “natural grapes”, you know, the kind with seeds in them.

Next, it was time to crush and press the grapes. But not so fast. First we had a wonderful lunch of bruschetta, noodles with pheasant, homemade sausage, polenta, patate fritte (french fries), and of course, a few bottles of wine.

With everything from John Coletrane to Italian punk playing in the background, we did all the processing the old fashioned way. No motorized crushing machine for us. Everyone took a turn at the crank, and soon the grapes were ready to be pressed. The press was a fascinating contraption of wood and iron but it certainly did the job. What came out of the press didn’t totally impress however. It tasted like the sweetest grape juice you’ve ever had, but it didn’t look very appealing. “Totally expected”, we were told, as the juice needs time for the sediment to settle, and then it’s filtered several times before it’s ready.

In the last couple weeks our wine has been transferred to damigiana, spent some quiet time in the cool dark barn fermenting, and has been filtered several times. I think Alberto’s Dad is getting interested in the experiment, as he’s filtered it for us at least once. In a month or three, it will be time to bottle it. Based on the harvest, we’re looking at about 140 or so bottles of soon-to-be-legendary Moscoski…or some really great vinegar. The early word is that it’s coming along nicely. In any case, it was truly one of the top “That’s why we came here” moments.

Goggle makes me sad sometimes.......

So sorry we haven't posted lately. We're almost out of free space on our Picasa photos account so I can't upload any more slide shows until I straighten it out. :-(
We'll be back at it soon.

We don't get days like this every day.....

Nothing exciting on this post. We had a very clear day recently so I snapped a few photos of the mountains from the car as we drove around town.

“The view was like a vision described in novels; a tiny town that hovered on jagged cliffs and sparkling blue water, " – Mary Paige Timberlake

On March 12^th, Team Pinkoski headed for the west coast. Cinque Terre (five lands) is a collection of villages perched on the cliffs of the Mediterranean Sea on the western shores of Italy. This area is known for lemons, olive oil and a superior (read expensive) white wine called Sciacchetra. The five main villages – north to south - are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore with little neighborhoods scattered along the hillsides and cliffs in between the main villages. To get there, catch the train in Le Spezia (which Ron affectionately referred to as the Portsmouth, Virginia of Italy) and ride to any of the five villages or beyond. Other than the DC Metro, the Pinkoski kids had never been on a train before, so this was a treat. The entire area is a National Park (Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre) and there are trails winding throughout the hillside to wander and enjoy. The “blue trail” runs along the waterway from Riomaggiore all the way to Monterosso. Unfortunately, there had been heavy rains a few weeks before we arrived that damaged the blue trail and parts of it were closed. We were able to hike the portion between Riomaggiore and Manarola (called via dell’ Amore). From Manrola, we caught the train to Monterosso al Mare, intending to work our way back to Riomaggiore. However, the kids were satisfied with the views they had already seen and were finished hiking for the day. They spent the end of the day skipping rocks into the Med. So, Cinque Terre became Tres Terre for us and we headed back to Le Spezia and then home.

One day isn't possibly enough time to see everything this area has to offer.

Slide show......

Monte Berico - “If you don't scale the mountain, you can't view the plain”

We recently spent an afternoon on Monte Berico in Vicenza. Monte Berico features an incredible view of Vicenza and beyond (see above) from the Piazzale della Vittoria. On a clear day, which this wasn't, you can see all the way to the lagoons of Venice and the Adriatic coast. On this day, we could see the Palladian Basilica (large green roof) and the Torre Bissara in downtown Vicenza. Monte Berico is also the home of the Basilica di S. Maria di Monte Berico (to the left). History tells us that the people of Vicenza were suffering from plague in 1426 when the Virgin Mary appeared twice on Monte Berico to promise deliverance from the sickness. The faithful and thankful people of Vicenza constructed a church on the site where she appeared. The original church (photo on the left)still stands and the structure is incorporated into the newer portion. Newer being a relative term - the original was built in 1428 and the expansion was added in 1688. We didn't go inside, but I hope we can next time. Housed in the refectory is a painting called "The Supper of Saint Gregory the Great" by Veronese. While the painting itself is a treasure, it also represents a spectacular success story for art restoration experts. In 1848, Austrian soldiers used this and other paintings for bayonet practice. The Supper was cut up into 30+ pieces. Other paintings weren't so lucky, but this one was able to be saved. What's so special about 1848? Revolution! Here is some more information on what was going on in Italy in 1848 from Encyclopedia Britannica.

St. Sebastian's first martyrdom is depicted in one of the statues on the outside of the church. "St. Sebastian with arrows" is a commonly utilized image but it is a misconception that this was how he died. Rather, it's just another case of the facts bending under the weight of sensationalism. This example just happens to be a thousand years old. For those unfamiliar with with the story, Sebastian was a Captain in the Roman army in the late third century and a Christian. Through his support and encouragement of two prisoners, they were able to maintain their commitment to the faith although they were facing execution. His support, plus a miracle or two here and there, convinced several prominent Roman officials and their families to also convert. For this betrayal, he was ordered executed - tied to a post, shot with arrows and left for dead - by the Emperor. He survived this execution attempt and was nursed back to health by Irene of Rome (later St. Irene of Rome). Apparently, Sebastian couldn't take a hint. When he regained his health, he approached the Emperor in public and loudly condemned his treatment of Christians. Maximian did not take kindly to a public rebuke and ordered Sebastian to be beaten to death with clubs (a second martyrdom). And they say we're violent today.

The Portico del Monte Berico (The Arcades of Monte Berico) is a steep, covered walkway consisting of 168 (+/-) arches and terminating at the Basilica di S. Maria di Monte Berico. The Stations of the Cross can be found sheltered within. Fairly new to this landscape, it was designed and built in the late 1700's. Each arch was sponsored and bears the name of the individual patron or organization that contributed to the success of project (aka ponied up some serious 18th century cash). It's not considered to be an architecturally beautiful structure by experts. We're not experts so we're not ashamed to admit it's impressive. I'm glad I don't have to walk this route every day. These photos only catch about half of the arches. At the break in the hill, the walkway makes a left and continues on down the hill.







Arrivederci, until next post.



Points West (get it?)

West in English = Ovest in Italian.

"This was Venice, the flattering and suspect beauty this city, half fairy tale and half tourist trap......" ~ Thomas Mann (1875-1955)

On February 27, Team Pinkoski went to Venice to take part in Carnevale festivities. "The Flight of the Angel" is an annual event dating back forever. I've read different dates, but it's been at least 400 years. The Angel ziplines from the San Marco bell tower to the center of Piazza San Marco. The Angel meets the Doge (as near as I can tell, the Doge serves in a role like the Rex at Mardi Gras) and Carnevale begins! In the 1700's, an Angel fell to his death and for the centuries to follow, the part of "The Angel" was fulfilled by a mannequin or other suitable substitute. Real people serving in the role as "The Angel" has only recently been reintroduced. While Carnevale is a great time, it is not a great time to see historic museums and sites. We will go back another time to see those. The thing to do while in Venice during Carnevale is to enjoy Carnevale. The costumes are amazing and the actors who wear them play their parts well. They stroll around the City posing for photographs and don't speak when performing, relying on exaggerated hand gestures. (You can insert a little snicker about Italians being VERY good at communicating with hand gestures here. I'm part Sicilian on my mom's side. I can take it.). It was irresistible to capture the humor in these two actors in white and gold talking on their cell phones while strolling through the crowd. A little glimpse through a fracture in the character's veneer to the modern people within. Or maybe they were just on a break.









Italians adore small children. Danica attracts quite a bit of attention any time we are in public, but she was especially popular at Carnevale. Several times throughout the day, strangers asked if they could take her photograph. We met a very nice British couple who snapped a few photos of Danica while she was having her face painted. Two Italian grandmas made a big fuss. Ronnie's dragon mask and Samantha's face paint butterfly were also attention-getters, as well.









The crowd was not this dense all day long, but it was close.









Venice has quintessential features that can be appreciated in spite of Carnevale crowds.
When you think of Venice, you think of -

Gondolas...

(gondolas are for tourists)







Canals...







Narrow Streets...







Water taxi....
Water taxis are for unsuspecting tourists who will find themselves significantly lighter in the pocket afterwards. If you visit on your own some day, take the water bus.





and of course, the amazing art of the Basilica San Marco.


















Next post, a quick trip to the top of Monte Berico here in Vicenza.

As usual, the slide show is here......



Ciao!

P.S. The local artists do not usually allow photos of the masks. I think it's so their designs are not copied. I don't know how Ron got away with taking the photo of the masks without a loud scolding by the merchant.

The Beautiful Republic of San Marino

...or The Enchanted Republic of San Marino, or the plain old Republic of San Marino (I prefer Enchanted). Whatever you call it, The Pinkoskis Great Big European Adventure ventured there recently. Those of you who know me may recall me talking about how it was a dream of mine to visit all six of the European microstates. Not really, but can you name them (the answer is at the bottom)? At about 24 square miles in size, San Marino is the smallest independent state in the world.

It's also the oldest, tracing it's origin back to 301 when a Christian stone-cutter named Marino (later, Saint Marinus) moved from nearby Rimini to Mount Titano to dodge persecution. Over time, others joined him, Marino was appointed Deacon, and he later received the Mount as a present from a rich Roman woman. The Mount became sort of a sanctuary for local Christians to practice their faith. Marino's last words were reported to be, “I leave you free from any other man.” And the independent Republic of San Marino was born.

This independence, not to mention it's fortified walls and relatively isolated location, served San Marino well over the years. While the Italians were subject to all sorts of “cruel tyranny” exercised by powerful ruling families (San Marino is completely surrounded by Italy), the Sammarinese lived in complete freedom. In the late 1700s, Napoleon came calling and offered San Marino more land if it would support him. They respectfully declined, but were spared the fate of most of Europe. San Marino also remained neutral during the two World Wars, although there was reportedly a Battle of San Marino, where the Allied and Axis armies battled in 1944.

But I digress, this story is about the Pinkoskis, not the Sammarinese. The Pinkoski gang boarded the bus on time and in good spirits, and began an extremely foggy trek southeast. First stop, as is almost always the case with these Army-sponsored trips, is the AutoGrill. AutoGrill is the name of the European truck stops located along the AutoStrada (the Italian Autobahn). It's got everything your finer American truck stop might have, but the meat and cheese cooler is not to be missed.
We fueled up on coffee, juice, candy bars and croissants and continued the journey. Along the way, our trip leader, Elena, entertained us with facts about the Republic, including how a less than honorable Italian girl might marry an old resident to try to gain citizenship.

San Marino is impressive...even from many miles away. You start to see Mount Titano from way off in the distance. Then you can begin to make out the three towers located on the three highest crests. And when you think you're there, you begin navigating an endless number of switchbacks as the road winds back and forth toward the top of the mountain and the town of San Marino (yes, town of San Marino located within the Republic of San Marino).

When the bus stops, you start walking...and climbing. One enters the old city through the Porta San Francesco. Originally a lookout post built in 1361, the gate was altered and restored several times, and fitted with an iron door. Once inside, the narrow cobblestone streets wind back and forth up the side of the mountain, opening into several piazzas. We passed the Cava dei Balestrieri (Crossbowman's Quarry), which includes a mini-amphitheater where medieval-themed events are held. It also includes a number of interesting works of art. There are also numerous breathtaking views of the (newer part of the) city below and thesurrounding country-side. We spent some time at the Monument to Bartolomeo Borghesi, famous archeologist and numismatist.

As we continued upward, we came to the Piazza della Liberta (Liberty Square). This Piazza is home to the Government House, San Marino's own Statue of Liberty and the Palazzetto delle Poste (the old post office). Once again, the view of the surrounding country was amazing. A cobblestone street leads you up to the Piazza Domus Plebis and the Basilica dei Santo. The Saint's Basilica is actually built on the site of the Republic's original Christian church.

And just when you think you've climbed enough, you realize that you haven't seen any of the three towers yet. So up the hill you go. The first tower is La Rocca O Guaita. Construction of Guaita began in the 10^th century and structurally it is the most impressive of the three. It was used as a prison up until the 1960s but is now a museum. A narrow, walled path called Passo delle Streghe (Witches Pass) winds across the the ridge between the first and second towers.

The second tower is La Cesta O Fratta. Built on the highest point of Mount Titano, Cesta was constructed around the 13^th century. Cesta houses the Museum of Ancient Arms, which includes suits of armor, knives, swords, crossbows (the Sammarinese are big on crossbows) and some oldey-timey guns. Actually, there are some impressive 1800s-vintage rifles and revolvers in the exhibit. The last tower is Montale. I was surprised to hear that no one knows when it was constructed (seems like somebody always knows, or is willing to guess on this sort of thing). Speculation is that the people started to build another large fortress to protect the southeast flank of the ridge, but times were good so they decided to do something else and it was never finished. It is privately owned and not open to the public so it doesn't get a lot of press. For me, the most impressive thing is that it's off by itself and you literally have to walk through the woods to get close to it.

The towers are impressive sites and our Sammarinese guide proudly noted that they were never taken by force. In fact, while they were never seriously damaged in battle, they ironically were nearly wiped out by neglect. It's reported that their walls were plundered to take stones to pave streets and build houses. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, a wave of national pride took hold and the towers were restored to their former glory.

When we weren't hiking up the streets, we were knocking around the shops...everything from fine jewelry (the girls got necklaces) and leather (Traycie went purse shopping), to liquor (Dad got Limoncello and Absinthe), to knives and guns (Ronnie got a cool pocket knife), to bumper stickers and refrigerator magnets. We had a nice lunch of pizza, gnocchi, a great big steak for Ronnie and a heapin' cup of wine for Dad. Sammie chose a cat nap instead. San Marino is famous for its stamps and coins, so I got a Euro proof set and we got a handful of post cards with stamps included. We spent some time at an outdoor cafe writing postcards, eating patate fritte and drinking coffee and hot chocolate.

San Marino includes a number of eclectic museums, notably, the Museum of Torture (children not included), the Vampire Museum, the Curio Museum and the Modern Arms Museum. And of course, the State Museum has all the art and culture you would expect from an old European City. It's not a very big place, but we barely had time to scratch the surface as far as things to do. Five out of five Pinkoskis agree, San Marino is a beautiful awesome place and we will definitely be returning.

So how many could you think of? - The six European microstates, include San Marino, Liechtenstein, the Vatican, Monaco, Andorra, and Malta.

As usual, here is the slide show.....